Heuristic
An ontology that describes chemical formulation in the perspective to assist the design process of cosmetic product.
Onto Cosmetic
Describe the capacity of the formulation product to be absopt by a skin.
After Feel - Absorption Rate
Ingredients that perform an specific function on customer skin. [cosmetic sector definition]. It is a chemical that helps with the main function of the cosmetic product.
Active
solid or liquid particles in a gas
Ingredients have the property to influence the afterfeel of the formulated product.
Agitatione state
Define the qualitative that the agitation process can have.
Anionic thickener
Chemicals that interrupt oxidation reactions and prevent the effects of oxygen radicals (e.g. peroxides) both processes known to damage the integrity and function of various natural substances. Antioxidants are useful in two ways: On the one hand they prevent degradation of natural ingredients (proteins, sugars, lipids) in the cosmetic product. On the other hand antioxidants protect the skin cells from being damaged and slow down the aging process. Antioxidants have been shown to boost the skin's radiance, minimize age spots, sun spots, and fine lines.
Aqueous Thickeners
Cationic thickener
A substance that reacts with metal ions to form stable, water-soluble metal. They are used in liquid soap and body wash to prevent fragrance and color degradation and for their synergistic effect with antimicrobials. The process of chelation stabilizes metal ions by preventing them from chemically reacting with any other substances.
Chelating agent
Classification that a substance can have
Chemical nature
It is a heterogeneous mixture in which a substance with a microscopic structure of disperse insoluble particles (disperse phase) is suspended in another substance (continuous phase). It can exist naturally, or it can be technically formulated, and in that case, it can also be named as a Formulation.
colloidal system
Dosages are the combination of an ingredient and a quantity. It constitute a part of a formulation.
Dosage
Droplet size state
Ingredient of oily nature used in cosmetics to make skin and hair softener. Some of them can serve as solvent for liposoluble actives. Additionally, some of them can act as occlusive ingredients, i.e., they create a barrier to avoid the loss of water. It can be classified according to its chemical nature into the sub-classes: ester, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, hydrocarbon, silicon, triglyceride.
Emollient
Sub-type of dosage which concerns only the emollient.
Emollient dosage
It is a heterogeneous mixture of two or more immiscible liquids. It is a sub-class of a more general class known as colloid.
It is a sub-type of heuristic that come from scientific literature.
chemical compound derived from an oxoacid (organic or inorganic) in which at least one –OH hydroxyl group is replaced by an –O– alkyl (alkoxy) group.
Sub type of emollient ingredient that are ether.
It is a sub-type of heuristic that come from expert interview.
A measurable characteristic of a substance that depends on the amount of mass of the system (Mass, volume, size)
Extensive property
Sub type of emollient ingredient that are fatty alcohol.
gas in liquid.
Designed mixture of ingredients combined with an appropriated process. It can potentially take any substance form. It is a technical created object. It can have different forms: solid, liquid, gas. And it can be homogeneous (solutions) or heterogeneous (colloidal system). It is a subclass of substance and a super class of solution, mixture, emulsion, colloid.
Blend
Describe the list of properties that a formulated product can have. Formulation heuristic can have an impact on it.
liquids in solids.
They are chemical compounds containing a certain number of hydroxyl groups. They are water- soluble and are widely used in cosmetics due to their moisturizing function. They also work as stabilizer solvents and dispersants of polymers. They have a significant effect on the feel of use.
HLB
It is a mixture in which the composition is not uniform throughout the mixture. It two or more phases in contact.
Heterogenous Mixture
Rules that are used by product formulator to anticipate what happens while combining different ingredients.
Sub group of heuristic that only concerns active ingredients.
Sub group of heuristic that only concerns emollients.
Sub group of heuristic that only concerns surfactants.
Sub group of heuristic that only concerns thickeners.
It is a mixture in which the composition is uniform throughout the mixture. It has only one phase.
Homogenous Mixture
Hygroscopic substance used to keep things moist. Most common are glycols.
Sub type of emollient ingredient that are hydrocarbon.
Substance that forms part of a formulation.
Ingredient
Describe the properties of the ingredient that is considered by the heuristic. Each instance is a type of property. All the propterties does not concern all the ingredients.
A measurable characteristic of a substance that is independent of mass quantity.
Intensive property
Ionic surfactant
Ionic thickener
It is a characteristic of colloidal systems. In this ontology it is described with two phases: Continuous phase and disperse phase.
It is an entity made up of two or more substances. It can be homogeneous or heterogeneous.
NRM = Natural Raw Material SRM = Synthetic Raw Material
Non ionic surfactant
Non stable
Non ionic thickener
After Feel - Oiliness
It described the origin of the ingredient or product.
Origin type
Other ingredient
Ph regulator
Compounds that prevent products from going off by controlling the growth of microorganisms. Some of them cannot be used for certain product applications and/or they have a maximum allowed concentration in the final product. For their selection, it is important to consider: efficiency, maximal allowed concentration, toxicity, environmental effect, and possible interactions with other emulsion ingredients.
Process
Process state
Qualitative value that describes the fomulation processing.
Formulation ready to go to the market.
Product
A measurable characteristic related to the physical state or chemical behavior of a substance. They are classified as extensive (depends on the amount of mass of the system) and intensive (independent of mass quantity).
physicochemical property
Define the different qualitative value of properties.
Property state
It is a single kind of substance that cannot be separated into other kinds of substance by any physical means.
Pure Substance
Rheologic state
Describe the after feel of the formulation on the skin of a consumer. I define the level of oilyness
After Feel - Absorption Sensation
Sub type of emollient ingredient that are silicone.
solid particles in a liquid.
gas in solid.
solid in solid.
It is a homogeneous mixture of soluble substances. It does not have a microstructure. It can exist naturally, or it can be technically formulated, and in that case, it can also be named as a Formulation.
The ability of the ingredient to spread on the skin
A formulation can be either stable or note stable.
Chemical that maintain the function and viscosity of the emulsion. Thus they also act as rheological modifiers. [cosmetic sector definition]
Stable
Substances in formulation design context can have various state: solid, liquid or gaseous.
State of matter
After feel - Stickiness
Physico-mechanical porpterties of a substance.
Structure property State
Any chemical entity (pure and mixture) is a substance.
Substance
Chemical properties of a substance.
Substance property
They are compounds that lower the interfacial tension between two immiscible phases. Surfactants are used in emulsions for four purposes: to decrease the energy required during emulsification, to adsorb rapidly at the interface of recently formed droplets, and to generate a barrier, either electrostatic, steric, or both, for long-term emulsion stability. Additionally, they can be also used as active ingredients in soaps, shampoos and conditioners. They can be classified according to their electrical nature in nonionic, ionic-anionic and ionic-cationic. They can be classified according to their chemical nature.
emulsifier
Sub-type of dosage which concerns only the surfactant.
Surfactant dosage
It is cloudy and heterogeneous. The particles are larger than 10,000 Angstroms which allows them to be filtered. If a suspension is allowed to stand the particles will separate out.
Anything can be described as a system. (Substance, process, product, mixture, etc). It is a superclass of substance and process.
System
It is a substance that can significantly modify the rheology of a fluid. Rheological modifiers are added to the formulation for three main purposes: to increase viscosity, to promote a particular rheological behavior (pseudo- plastic and thixotropic), and to enhance emulsion stability.
Rheological modifiers
Bloc unit of a process.
Unit operation
Ingredients that protect the skin from sun damage and prevent the risks of skin cancer such as melanoma as well as sunburn, premature aging of the skin, or the appearance of spots. They can be mineral (ex. Titanium oxide, zinc oxide) or they can be organic (ex. Octocrylene).
Sub type of emollient ingredient that are vegetable oil.
It is the is a measure of the resistance of a fluid to deformation. It determines the spreadability of the oil and its formulations. Units (mPa*s) Describe the level of viscosity of a formulated product. it can be low, medium or high. It is related to the sensorial term of thickness.
Absorption rate
After feeling
Ingredients that make the consumer look younger by reducing, masking or preventing signs of skin aging.
It corresponds to the temperature at which the surfactant begins to precipitate when the temperature is increased. Emulsions are destabilized above this temperature (maximal temperature for stability).
Cloud point
Complete sensoriel profile
Cream
It is the concentration at which the surfactant molecules begin to form micelles in an aqueous solution, i.e., an aggregate structure of surfactant molecules. Below CMC, surface tension is reduced when the surfactant concentration increases; above CMC, the surface tension remains constant.
Critical micelle concentration
Relationship between qualitative state of substance property and the property.
defines state of
It is the mass per unit of volume. In emulsions it is related to emulsion stability.
Density
Fromulated product can be emulsions. These emulsions are caracterized by the size of the droplets.
Droplet size
It is the ability to increase viscosity using a certain quantity of the rheological modifier. Efficiency depends on the polymer nature, molecular weight, branches, and conformation.
Efficiency
Electrical nature
Emollient type
Ester
Ether
Category of emollient that are carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain.
Fatty acid
Category of emollients that are usually high-molecular-weight derived from natural fats and oils.
fatty alcohol
Formulation type
State of matter. It is a substance in a state that takes the shape and volume of its container.
Gas
Gel
Give one or several afterfeeling properties to an ingredient of type emollient.
has afterfeeling
the final HLB of the surfactant mixture that compose the formulation
Give the chemical nature of an ingredient.
has chemical nature
Give the dosages that composes a formulation.
has dosage
Give the level of emollience of an ingredient of type emollient.
has emollience level
the HLB that a surfactant can have
Data properties that provides a description of the heuristic.
High threshold in percentage for an heuristique.
Associate an heuristic to the ingredient property that is involved in the rule.
is affected by ingredient property
Define which ingredient type is concerned by the heuristic.
involves ingredient type
Low threshold in percentage for an heuristique.
Associate a heuristic to the structure property of the formulation final product that is involved in the rule.
has structural property
Associate an heuristic to the process used to do the formulation final product. This process will have an impact on the product structure or properties.
is produced through
Associate an heuristic to a product property. The rule has an impact on the properties of the final product formulated.
Define the state that is given to the property when the heuristic is verified.
Provides the source of the heuristic (from literature or experience)
the INCI code that a ingredient can have.
Relationship that defines the ingredients that are used in a formulation.
has ingredient
Defines a relation between an heuristic and a specific state of a property. It defines the property state that could trigger the heuristic.
has ingredient property state
Define the ionic nature of an ingredient.
Define the number of surfactants inside a given formulation.
Provide the origin of an ingredient
has origin
it define which phase the ingredient is soluble in.
Price per kilogram of an ingredient
Processing done on the ingredient of the formulation.
Provides the size of the droplet of the final product of a formulation. This droplet will depends on process.
Define the oiliness of formulated product.
Percentage of the formulated product that represent oily ingrdient.
Define the stability of a formulation final product.
Provides the viscosity of the formulation final product.
Relationship that link a property to the qualitative value that are associated to the property.
has qualitative value
the quantity of ingredient that compose the dosage. This quantity is in percentage of volume of the formulation.
the RHLB that an emollient can have.
Defines the spreading property of an emollient.
Provides the texture that can be expected from a given surfactant.
The total quantity of surfactant that a formulation has. This quantity is in percentage of volume.
The total quantity of thickener that a formulation has. This quantity is in percentage of volume.
High absorption rate
High agitation
High droplet
High spreading
High viscosity
Catergory of emmolients that have organic compound consisting entirely of hydrogen and carbon.
Hydrocarbon
Incomplete sensorial profile
Ingredient type
Relate a formulation with a product that is commercialized or will be.
is commercialized as
Define the type of substance (chemical nature) that is concerned by the property.
is property of
Give the ingredient of a dosage.
is quantifying
Defines that a formulation validate a given heuristic.
It is the minimal temperature at which surfactants begin to form micelles. Below this temperature, the solubility of surfactant is low. Stable emulsions are only formed above this temperature (minimal temperature for stability).
Kraft point
Light emollience
State of matter. It is a substance in a state that takes the shape of its container but retains a (nearly) constant volume independent of pressure
Liquid
Lotion
Low absorption rate
Low agitation
Low spreading
Low viscosity
Medium absorption rate
Medium agitation
Medium droplet
Medium viscosity
Medium emollience
Medium spreading
Medium to high spreading
Medium to light emollience
Medium to low psreading
Medium to rich emollience
It is the temperature in which a substance in the solid-state melts and change to a liquid state. It is important for the selection of ingredients and process conditions. For example, in the case of emollients, it determines if the emollient is solid or liquid, its consistency, and the possible consistency of the resulting formulation.
Melting point
Microstructure
No sticky sensation
Non oily
Oil in water
Oiliness
Oily
Oily phase
It is a region of space throughout which all physical properties of a material are essentially uniform.
Phase
It is a property that represent the separation of the electrical charge within the same molecule. The polarity determines the types of inter-molecular forces of the substance. Thus, it is related to other properties such as solubility, boiling point, fusion point, among others.
Polarity
Product type
Recommanded usage
It represents the HLB needed by an oil or a mixture of oils to be more likely to be incorporated in a stable O/W emulsion by an emulsifier or blend of emulsifiers. It determines the compatibility of oils with the surfactant system. The value of the required HLB of an emollient blend corresponds to the average of the HLB required by each emollient weighted by its mass composition in the emollient mixture.
Required HLB
Rheology
Rich emollience
Sensorial profile
Category of emollient that are polysiloxane which is a polymer made up of siloxane (−R2Si−O−SiR2−)
Small droplet
State of matter. It has an structural rigidity and a resistance to a force applied to the surface.
Solid
Solubility in water
Source
Special function
Spreading
Stability
Stickiness
Sticky sensation
Surfactant type
Texture
Thickener type
Stability with other ingredients because some rheological modifiers may cause the precipitation of other ingredients in the formula.
Thickener stability
Transport and realease
Category of emollients that are ester derived from glycerol and three fatty acids
Very high oily sensation provided by a formulation. It is a value of the oiliness property.
Very oily
Very waterly
Viscosity
Property that describes the color and transparency.
Visual appearance
Water in oil
Water phase
Water sensation provided by a formulation. It is a value of the oiliness property.
Waterly